Saturday, January 31, 2009

Follow-up on Crump's post

One more thing. I have to say that I agree with Crump. The Boundary Boulders do have some definite potential for some good hard problems and is well worth exploring. I also encourage people to start heading over there.
I'll try this again. Thanks for the invite to this blog. It's very nice to be kept up to date with some of the recent sends, new problems and all. I was out at E-Rock a couple months ago and sent a good problem (probably only about V1 near the BURB's II problems. If your facing Forty-one Thirty, go uphill to the right probably about 50-75 feet. There's a relatively small boulder to the right (it's one of the topmost in this collection of boulders) and there is a nice face (approximately the north side of the boulder) just to the right of a small tree. The route climbs up the arete (for the right hand) and good crystals onthe face to the left. I put full weight on some of these crystals and they all held. You follow the arete up and left with your right hand until you get to the good crystals and then head left up the face and top out. The line is franky pretty obvious once you find the boulder. Just below (downhill and to the right of the above face) is a larger and if you go into the alcove to the left, there looks like a good highball problem that you have to start by stemming off of the boulder across from it. I didn't have spotters or a pad and thus didn't try it. My guess is it's somewhere in the V1-V3 range. Please post if anyone tries these things and sends the one I just mentioned.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Cosmic Order has been restored...

"Dharma" in Hindu.
Dylan returned the cosmos to its rightful order this last saturday and sent Dharma.  He wasted almost no time in feeling out its rhythm and was completely solid in his movements.  Very proud send.  
Many cheers Dylan-son.

Dylan seeking cosmic order on Dharma
Austin found that order had already been restored.

prior to that cosmic call to order he also enjoyed virgin moves on what he calls "three day weekend" up the hill in the picnic area on top of Freshman summit.  A jump start to a good crimp rail leads to a pretty high topout.  Austin soon followed a similar path too.

Dylan living in a Three Day Weekend daydream

Around the corner to the left we also established "Night Sky" which climbs directly in front of the dead tree... which is now a little less imposing.  We feel 3-day weekend to be about V2/3 ER 4 1-star and Night Sky to be about V2/3 ER2 1-star.  

Dylan peering into Night Sky

We then spent a little time cleaning up & exploring the central line that climbs above the boulder leaning against the base of the wall.  INCREDIBLE!  two bomber jugs start one on their way, which is nice of it to do for us.  Smaller and smaller holds lead to a big move to a pretty good hold but place one in a scary position over that boulder.  The moves after that are unknown but are suspected to continue over that boulder or the edge of it.  To finish this one safely I think will require 6+ pads to be able to build up the landing zone to the right of that boulder to the same height.  We contemplated the notion of a single TR bolt up top, but I now think the best thing is to leave it as a very proud headpoint boulder problem.  This is definitely a 3-star line.... I highly recommend it and encourage working it.

Austin cleaning crispy holds on the "Ergophobia project".
Night Sky to the left. Three Day Weekend to the right.


BURBs pics

heck yes Eric.  thanks for posting.  I'm psyched to know yall are getting on that.  They'er ER-scary for sure.  Did you get on any more lines further right of the project in your 2nd picture?  ER grade starts to climb higher and faster but they look more than worthy.

I'm not placing the arete in my mind yet though.

Here are my pics of what I had dubbed the "fist jam alcove".  Now that Alley Cat is established do you have any recommendations on that little area's name?

Say, as you live so close and all, may I suggest taking a harness one day and getting on the Murman route?  I've still not had or dedicated the time to lead that thing and I don't know of anyone else who has yet.  Great moves.  Great rock.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

BURBs pics

Sorry, I was a day late for the pics, but I thought these might help.

Here are two of "Alley Cats"

Here is the project next to it with a crappy topout

Here is the funky overhanging arete around the corner

Monday, January 26, 2009

Exploration in the BURBs

First, I'm excited to see this blog come together and appreciate Matt for inviting me to join the gathering. For those that don't know, I live here in Fredericksburg, which makes it convenient to jump in on last minute trips.

Moving on, I did want to mention that I have been exploring the BURBs area lately and have found a number of quality problems. Most of them are in the easier range v0-v3, which might not be a bad thing to help newbies out. Their is one very quality problem we named "Sail Away," that is probably v3 (hands down one of the best problems in the area). It is a unique problem for Erock as it climbs an overhanging areate with no feet directly beneath you. We also discovered a funky v0 face climb we named "Alley Cats" in the corridor just downhill from the BURBs problem. There are a couple harder lines with a sketchy top out just uphill which we failed to send (don't worry the landing is safe, we tested it a number of times). Last but not least we climbed a cool vertical to slabby areate v0 that had some amazingly large crystals, not kidding these things were huge.

Anyways, I know this doesn't help much without pictures, so I will try to get some from Scott Chapman and post them soon. This is just the tip of the iceberg for this area, and we climbed a few other lines that were less notable. If anyone is interested in checking them out, then I'd love to head back out there soon.

Guess that's it for now,
Eric Odenwald

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Regrading "Honk If You're Horny" "V7"

First, Thanks for creating this opportunity Joe.

"Honk If You're Horny" "V7" Backside of the Rombatron Boulder

This is a photo of John Garcia on this problem a couple years ago.

I revisited Honk If You're Horny this weekend. I was able to climb it again relatively quickly and felt very controlled on it. The tenuous hand foot match followed by the upward creep toward the lip via a minuscule crimper, and the final stretched deadpoint for the lip were not as desperate as I remembered finding them to be the first day Tweakman and I climbed this problem (which is the same day this photo was taken). I think the problem comes down to leg strength. After hiking erock so many weekends in a row my legs are stronger than when we originally visited this problem. I stood up to grab the lip with more control than on previous attempts. My left hand did not leave the gaston crimper as we thought was necessary to reach the lip. My switch to trad over the last year has helped my leg strength because a rack and rope etc... weigh much more than a light crash pad, shoes, and chalk. I think that we may have overgraded it and that it is more possibly a V6 or V5 depending on your dimensions.
So are you guys working anything out on Flagpole?  In my day, I viewed that area as the future of bouldering at ERock...  The summit blocks and the face around to the left of Cool Whip is steep and has huge crystals on it... plus there is some crazy looking stuff down in the Boundary Boulders.  I know it is a long walk, but the potential is soo good!  & watch out for snakes in Rattle Snake Gully!

Also have any of you done Hung Like and Ostrich???  Great name, stupid problem! :-)

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Dharma proj

Returned to work on this Freshman Mnt line. It had been about 5 years and still seemed difficult. Linked a few moves here and there. Some shots...

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Old images

Found some old shots... Here's one of Zach on the Strong Arm Traverse (sans heel hooks)
And Chris on a project by Hairskirt...

let's do this!

yeah yeah we already got, but this is unique for the boulderers of ERock!

find a new proj?
send a new proj?
establish a new v-grade?
break crucial holds?
wanna down/up grade?
dope pix?

whatever it is, let's do this.

Thanks Joe for setting this up.  It's a simple way to help bring the ERock bouldering community together.  We're a pretty disparate group and lack a routine or scheduled sesh, but we all share a groove for mastering the stone moves found at the Park.

I'd like to request one thing from everyone.  I'm not a fan of not knowing a poster because I don't know their nickname.  I'd respect it if everyone would end their posts with their name.  I doubt anyone has anything to hide behind.

many cheers!
Matt Twyman