Thursday, January 29, 2009

Cosmic Order has been restored...

"Dharma" in Hindu.
Dylan returned the cosmos to its rightful order this last saturday and sent Dharma.  He wasted almost no time in feeling out its rhythm and was completely solid in his movements.  Very proud send.  
Many cheers Dylan-son.

Dylan seeking cosmic order on Dharma
Austin found that order had already been restored.

prior to that cosmic call to order he also enjoyed virgin moves on what he calls "three day weekend" up the hill in the picnic area on top of Freshman summit.  A jump start to a good crimp rail leads to a pretty high topout.  Austin soon followed a similar path too.

Dylan living in a Three Day Weekend daydream

Around the corner to the left we also established "Night Sky" which climbs directly in front of the dead tree... which is now a little less imposing.  We feel 3-day weekend to be about V2/3 ER 4 1-star and Night Sky to be about V2/3 ER2 1-star.  

Dylan peering into Night Sky

We then spent a little time cleaning up & exploring the central line that climbs above the boulder leaning against the base of the wall.  INCREDIBLE!  two bomber jugs start one on their way, which is nice of it to do for us.  Smaller and smaller holds lead to a big move to a pretty good hold but place one in a scary position over that boulder.  The moves after that are unknown but are suspected to continue over that boulder or the edge of it.  To finish this one safely I think will require 6+ pads to be able to build up the landing zone to the right of that boulder to the same height.  We contemplated the notion of a single TR bolt up top, but I now think the best thing is to leave it as a very proud headpoint boulder problem.  This is definitely a 3-star line.... I highly recommend it and encourage working it.

Austin cleaning crispy holds on the "Ergophobia project".
Night Sky to the left. Three Day Weekend to the right.



  1. I thought after posting this last night that I should say that Conrad and I had come across these problems maybe two years ago. Conrad had performed some scoping and cleaning maybe a year ago. I don't know if these had seen any action prior to these encounters. I'm not taking credit for finding, just stating what we did that day.

    We had some success on "Ergophobia", the central line, but felt the need for more pads in order to offer up more serious pushes.

  2. Matt
    I haven't been on these lines since i took microwave, dylan, austin, and morgan to them a year or two ago. I immediately disagreed with the grades you mentioned. MP, AW ,myself, and DJ could do neither of those lines at the time. i doubt V2/3 is appropriate. I hope you didn't tear the tree down as it was part of the beauty of the problem to the left. It was part of what appealled to me about the climb :) hopefully still there?
    Congrats dylan! I see you got over the highball fear on the jumpstart problem, congrats.

  3. tree's still there. we pruned it a little to prevent a potential impailment. They're really not that bad. Dylan fired the jumpstart first go with ease and I got the one on the left on the second go with relative ease. Perhaps a little higher grade, but I truly don't think more than one digit up. I can't verify the jumpstart grade as my back hadn't warmed up to that move and I bowed out. But Dylan proposed the grade himself and it looked about right by watching he and Austin walk up it. Perhaps we can get on these together and feel that out. I remember looking at these with you the first time and thinking the were pretty damn hard, but I dont' think that's the case. Well... except for the middle line. That's likely a 7 or a little harder. Mostly scary. I'm really psyched on that line. Incredibly gorgeous rock... especially when the sun hits it just right, about 1 or 2pm... or later.

    btw... we recycled the tree as best we could and filled in some of the landing zones to flatten them out a bit. It was pretty garish looking when we walked up... lots of limbs piled up on the bushes behind it.